The devil is in the detail and Hermés’ artistic director Véronique Nichanian knows it well. Working closely with director Cyril Teste, the fall/winter 2022 collection was present in the Réserve Perret of Paris’ Mobilier National. Old tapestries were digitally recreated and projected on the walls of the runway where the landscape unfurls rhythmically as models strut and work the designs.
Focusing on contrasting materials and superimposed elements on top of one another, most garments sported subdued colours of brown, black and grey that leave the accents of bright coloured patterns and shiny textures to capture the eye.
The juxtaposition of the glossy crocodile jackets paired with satin shirts with scarf-like wrap collars was a feast for the eyes — the perfect balance of edginess and elegance.
Playful use of fluorescent green and orange technical fabric for pockets and panels across multiple parkas and blousons in lambskin and calfskin demonstrates how functional clothing can be artistic too.
Unlike past collections, the fall/winter 2022 sports more activewear-inspired garments instead of streetwear influences. Besides the use of water-repellent satins, cotton and canvas, the shearling and teddy underlinings can be removed whenever needed – perfect for those living in cities with temperamental weather.
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As for accessories, bucket hats in glazed calfskin and technical satin are prove that this style will not be going out of trend anytime soon. More importantly, this season sees the debut of a new bag called “Rock”.
The calfskin carrier shares a resemblance to the maison’s prized Birkins; it features multiple side pockets, one with a zip and another with press-on button closure, and a thick metal chain running attached to the side of the bag.
Lovers of bold colourways will not be disappointed. Look towards the lighter trenchcoats, turtleneck sweaters and cardigans in bright red (teetering on orange), pollen yellow and the brand’s signature green to diversify the closet.
Although mind-blowing sets and live performances can up the ante for any fashion show, Hermés and Nichanian are sticking to their guns because sometimes being simple is the best — just let the clothes do the talking.
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