Improvisation, collaboration, curiosity and candour – these are the principles embedded in Gucci’s fall/winter 2023 men’s collection, an indie take on a classic gentleman’s wardrobe presented with a refined edge of masculine seduction. The collection envisions improvisation as a crucial tool for creation, allowing artists to access and fully activate the intuition of their craft, aiming to reflect the individuality of the imagination of Gucci, and the range of multi-faceted inspirations brought to life by the creatives who inhabit the house.
Voluminous, languid tailoring aims to enable spontaneous and fresh styling, resulting in suits with detachable elements which allow the wearer to transform them into sleeveless jackets and shorts. There’s also the mix and match of traditionally contrasting wardrobes, such as sportswear informed by Gucci’s 1980s archives and motorcycling garments which pay tribute to items from the early 2000s. You’ll find faded denim trousers which look as they’ve been washed with fuel, and Crystal GG, a new lacquered interpretation of the house’s coated monogram canvas from the 1970s. Archival accessories such as the reinterpreted signature Jackie bag also take centre stage here, playing on the idea of how an individual injects personality into one’s own styling through their usage.
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Set to a live performance by Marc Ribot’s Ceramic Dog, the collection’s customised soundtrack built on the energy exuded by the clothes, cycling through genres like jazz and punk, which are built on principles of musical improv. Standing on a circular stage around which the show unfolded, the band’s circular formation was symbolic of the cyclical nature of the creative community at the heart of Gucci, and the art of improvised self-expression this collection sought to portray. Stars like Kai of EXO, who caught up with BAZAAR and Singaporean actor Desmond Tan at the Milan show, witnessed the high-octane runway presentation from the front row. Watch what they had to say about the collection below, then read ahead to see all the looks for yourself.