Virginie Viard showed her first couture presentation today, and it was nothing short of a hit. All roads lead back to Coco—the sweeping library that housed the Chanel Couture show at the Grand Palais was inspired by a neutral-hued one at the house’s founder’s home on Rue Cambon. The collection paid homage to those Chanel roots favored by Coco and Karl Lagerfeld: tweedy, long slim jackets, skirt suits, little black bowed shoes, pearl accents.

But it was also very much the designer’s own. Oversized, round shouldered jackets over mini dresses, ultra feminine dresses with bows and sheer chiffon, face framing ruffs, some elegant sparkle. Viand is keeping Chanel Chanel, bien sur, but with a new approach to quiet sophistication that feels all hers.

This article originally appeared on Harper’s BAZAAR US.

See all the highlights from Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2019 below.