J.W. Anderson musing on Tudor fashion might be hard to imagine or believe. Yet Anderson’s spring collection pulled details and silhouettes of the Medieval era and gave them a 21st century look and feel.

The collection had a soft, romantic and feminine vibe, even when the designer was referencing men’s looks or, in one case, what appeared to be linen placemats sewn into architectural layers to create a dress. Maybe it sprung from the idea that way back when, when linens and materials were at a premium, you made do with what you had on hand.

Elsewhere the costumes of kings showed up in the quilted jackets sewn asymmetrically into pleated skirts or the pinched-and-pouffed hybrid quilted and cotton shirts. To avoid period piece costumery, they were paired with ombre pastel skirts and round-toed shoes (a nice relief from all the points) tied with cords or printed lace-up looks.

This seemed to be Anderson’s most commercial collection in a while, with tie-dye striped dresses, slim slip dresses with contrast ribbon details and a handful of sweaters with exaggerated rollnecks. Think Elizabethan neck ruffle in proportion.

Everything was understandable if a little tweaked for Anderson’s offbeat sensibilities and inclination towards skewing reality on the runway. Like effortless day tunics with extra material for louche draping or a pair of strapless dresses with two sleeves hanging off the waist, as if someone yanked this damsel’s top off, only to reveal another layer below.

From: Harper’s BAZAAR US