Simone Rocha is a romantic at heart—a little bit of a twisted, gothic romantic. The designer has amassed a following of women who appreciate pretty with a dark side.

Rocha’s fall show was presented at the opulent Lancaster House, an apt spot for a designer who keeps a keen eye on British royalty. This season referenced Victorians, both literally and stylistically, bringing in the sensual restraint that comes with the territory.

That restriction came from bow ties and a feeling of swaddling and enveloping—as seen in a standout pink coat.

Rocha’s go-to shades are white, black, pink and red with the occasional dose of tweed. The trick came with the twisty, turn-y, sheer, floral-appliqué approach that’s so recognisably hers.

A gown that cut away at the leg and seemed to fall apart at the seams with sheer underlay was Rocha’s dark romance at its most exquisite. You may not find your weekend brunch look here, but a designer who shows at a space in the same neighbourhood as the royal family home is far more interested in outfitting her band of dark mistresses for occasions of note, anyway.

From: Harper’s BAZAAR US