The sheer scale of Anya Hindmarch’s set — a make-believe “mountain” that rose at least two-storeys from within the cavernous hall of The Royal Horticultural Society’s headquarters in Vincent Square — was enough to qualify it as one of London Fashion’s Week most memorable. Models descended from the summit on a zig-zag path carved onto the slope (though a few trekked up from the base) kitted-out in clothes that played out Hindmarch’s playful answer to winter dressing and wanderlust. There were coats with furry collars, argyle knits matched with knickers and jackets adorned with Scandinavian Kurbits.
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Travel partially underscored Topshop Unique’s latest collection, though the show notes suggested that these were clothes made for the young urban explorer with a taste for the eclectic. The high street label has always appealed to the selfie-loving, millennial crowd, so it drew up a youth range of easy pieces such as oversized sweatshirts and effortless dresses with asymmetrical slits that not only looked picture perfect, but also reminded us why London is the epicentre of the seismic Youthquake movement.
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Speaking of the impulse to travel, MM6 Maison Margiela’s presentation at famed auction house Christie’s in Mayfair left us yearning to cross the English Channel for the City of Lights with a wardrobe for an incredibly modern Parisienne — as heavy winter coats got reassessed and reimagined.
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“Britishness” is integral to Johnny Coca‘s transformation of Mulberry, and he’s done more than a decent job reinstating its relevance in fashion. Coca expanded on the theme again, but instead of adapting preppy uniforms for Mulberry’s vernacular like he did last season, he relied on bookish checks, boxy jackets, knitted dresses, capes as if cut from quilted horse blankets, plus good old florals to win over more fans for the brand.
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The day culminated with Mary Katrantzou‘s ode to Disney! In a collection inspired by the 1940 animation “Fantasia”, dresses and luxurious fur coats were dusted with fairy dust in the form of embellished crystals that dripped and rustled to the delight of our eyes and ears.
By Gerald Tan and Adriel Chiun
See more of the latest coverage from the London Fashion Week fall/winter 2017 shows here.