It's A Man's World: The Brands, Trends And Buzziest News To Know Now
Here's what's going on in the world of men's fashion.
Whether you're looking to inject a bit of freshness into your wardrobe or spice up your everyday staples, it's worth paying attention to what’s going on in the world of men's fashion—the brands, trends and buzziest news to know now.
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This summer, designers are turning to animal prints to enliven our wardrobes—but not the way you know it. The focus is not so much on the natural motifs of animal hides, but on cartoonish renditions of the creatures themselves. Think cute and cuddly instead of click and glamorous. Thom Browne’s signature grey tailoring got a playful update via a menagerie’s worth of embroideries; JW Anderson turned a mouse with comically large ears into an all-over print; while Charles Jeffrey Loverboy made animal hoodies complete with ears and tails.
Shirt, $730, JW Anderson
The game of designer musical chairs has begun anew, with a couple of high-profile exits by young creative directors at established houses. In both instances, the designers were appointed with much fanfare but their stints were ultimately short-lived. First up, Rhuigi Villaseñor, who was tasked with re-energising Bally. Villaseñor took over the reins in January 2022, and in the span of two runway shows, brought a sexy, ’90s-tinged opulence to the Swiss luxury brand. Despite a new spate of celebrity fans—Adrien Brody and J Balvin were front row at the February show, while Chris Pine and Nicholas Hoult wore the brand on the red carpet—the designer and the House chose to part ways last month. Even shorter-lived was Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s tenure at Ann Demeulemeester. De Saint Sernin first gained acclaim with his eponymous label, which centres a distinctly queer take on sensuality. He brought that sensibility to the Belgian brand known for its romantic-goth look but the partnership fizzled out after only a single season.
Ann Demeulemeester fall/ winter 2023
Ludovic de Saint Sernin
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Timothée Chalamet is known for his daring fashion choices—who could forget that siren-red, backless jumpsuit he wore to last year’s Venice Film Festival? Equally impressive as his style risks is the breadth of designers he works with, which ranges from household names like Kim Jones to insider favourites such as Haider Ackermann. Fashion loves him, but the Dune star has held off from signing any contracts with a major house—until now. In a casting coup, Chanel recently announced Chalamet as the new face of its Bleu de Chanel fragrance. A set of moody images shot by Mario Sorrenti is the first we see of Chalamet in his new role, while a Bleu de Chanel film directed by Martin Scorsese is slated for release later this year.
Timothée Chalamet in his Bleu de Chanel campaign
Destination shows have become de rigueur in womenswear but are still somewhat of a novelty in the realm of menswear. Anthony Vaccarello seems to be an exception—he stations his Saint Laurent women’s shows in Paris but has occasionally taken his men’s outings to locales like Venice and New York. For spring/summer 2023, Vaccarello brought the fashion caravan to Marrakech, the city so beloved by Yves Saint Laurent that he set up his second home there. In the middle of the Agafay Desert, Vaccarello staged a beautiful mirage of a show against a spectacular set by the artist, Es Devlin. The clothes showed a designer who has hit his stride in menswear—Vaccarello confidently dipped into the Saint Laurent oeuvre, translating the designer’s razor-sharp Le Smoking tuxes, louche robes and billowing silk blouses into essentials for a modern male wardrobe.
The Saint Laurent spring/ summer 2023 menswear show staged in a desert outside of Marrakech
France has always been an unending mine of inspiration for Hedi Slimane and while the designer usually riffs on the codes of Parisian chic, this summer, Slimane looked to the charms of Saint-Tropez when creating the CELINE Plein Soleil summer capsule collection. The capsule gets its name from the 1960 Alain Delon film and one can certainly imagine the pieces existing in the sun-soaked world of that erotic thriller. To round out the full idea of CELINE summer living, the Maison has also launched a range of furniture and lifestyle objects—highlights include a hammock, a deckchair and picnic baskets big and small.
Fan, CELINE Plein Soleil
The Cannes Film Festival has served as an unofficial Fashion Week for years now—the place where stars and brands go to reveal their most showstopping gowns and jewels. This year, Versace made it official with a full-on runway extravaganza to present its La Vacanza summer collection. The womenswear was co-designed by Donatella Versace and Dua Lipa, but the menswear was pure Donatella, who served up a mix of French Riviera and Miami Beach sensibilities. There were Barbie pinks and baby blues; baggy shorts and colourful, camp-collar shirts. Jackets were worn unbuttoned all the way, and suits with nothing underneath save for a vaguely kinky harness-corset hybrid.
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