Spring was the first Salvatore Ferragamo collection without Massimiliano Giornetti’s direction. And just as other houses are managing without a brand name creative director, so did Ferragamo, which showed a solid lineup of sculpted ladylike dressing with flares of masculine-feminine. And it should be noted that Ferragamo has tapped celebrated young shoe designer Andrew Paul to focus on its footwear, starting next season. Meaning, the brand that was launched on incredible shoes is now building that business up again.
But this collection will keep Ferragamo faithful politely dressed in the meantime. The m.o. here was volume on top and svelte below. This balance showed through on gently pumped-up sleeves and high-waisted skirts and pants or dresses with pleated waists.
The design team experimented with plisse pleats, printed in florals. While shoes were an homage to the brand’s famous platforms. Then, they were the giddy rainbow shoes. Now, reworked in tonal neutrals.
Bright blues and reds popped against olive drab and tons of brown, and felt like a good place for the design team to launch from for next season — colour.
Another interesting note were the layers of lace, seen on white shirts under bibs, fluted skirts and trimming ribbed dresses. It was delicate yet offered a graphic counter to the straightforward tonality of the rest of the collection.
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US