Even if you haven’t heard the name Nensi Dojaka, you’ve likely seen her work on celebrity fans like Bella Hadid, Rihanna, and Emily Ratajkowski. Dojaka is best known for bodycon pieces and a Y2k-inspired sensibility. Her fall 2022 collection (which was her second solo show ever) took those elements and expanded upon them, resulting in pieces that were daring, evocative, and sensual.
At the core of the brand is the little black dress. Here, it came long, lean, and sheer with plenty of cut-outs. There were midi options with skin showing through bare slashes and panels of mesh, and mini takes with cut-outs around the bust. Worn with intricate sheer tights, the latter looked well-suited for the red carpet or a stage performance.
The long dresses, in particular, felt new for the designer. With their airy, light fabrics, they straddled the line between black tie and club attire. The designer was reportedly inspired to make longer dresses after working with Camille Charrière and Zendaya on custom pieces.
The main difference this season, however, was the emphasis on color and texture. Dokaja has made her name with all-black and neutrals pieces, but here she used splashes of burgundy and clay. These hues came to life with the addition of lush details like supple velvet and intricate detailing. Seashell-like bras were rendered into dresses with the use of sheer detailing and divinely feminine flowing straps. Also new: the flashes of icy sequins covering pants and skin-baring halter tops. The textural interest was very welcome in a sea of non-embellished fabrics.
Dojaka says her inspiration came directly from the female form. Each model seemed to represent an individual take on bodycon, whether in the form of hypnotic hip cut-outs on leather skirts or oversized blazers thrown over gossamer sheer, lingerie-like tops. Pregnant model Maggie Maurer wore a transparent sequin tube dress, while Paloma Elsesser wore one of the structured LBDs. The pieces perfectly telegraphed sexiness and modernity, but we couldn’t help but wonder if even more emphasis on body diversity might make such a bodycon collection feel more innovative in the year 2022.