Calvin Klein has never been a brand afraid of suggestion. And for fall, Francisco Costa suggested to a fare-thee-well—about sex with those belts and straps, about overt luxury with those beautiful furs and about feminine strength, with those powerful black suits.

It seemed like a subtle shift in his silhouette in places, seen in dresses that hung from thin straps and skimmed the body in ultra femme shapes. And a touch of mink at the shoulder? Posh.

Giant plaids in greys and blues offered a change of pace from the dark hues, but were just as interesting. Sure they were plaid coats, day dresses and suits in idea, but something entirely more interesting in execution—spliced with leather and spotted fur or other plaids in varying scale, or worn with a matter-of-fact minimalism.

The streamlined coat silhouettes felt modern and statement-making, whether done in Matrix-worthy black leather or in a fur print (not a fur, a print of a fur) worn with a complementing fur print dress and bag. He explored this fur print for a while, at times it looked almost like wood grain, with oval cut-outs suggestively placed at the hip.

If Costa at Calvin has gotten a reputation for playing it safe in the past, he blew that notion out of the water this season. He managed to stay within his minimal modern wheelhouse while maintaining excitement and desire for day time coats and dresses.

From: Harper’s BAZAAR US