Digitally-savvy millennial designers may be better prepared to adapt to the coming change in the fashion schedule thanks to the see now/wear now movement, but don’t count the veterans out just yet. Diane von Furstenberg played such a power move Sunday night, she must rest her head every night on a pillow cross-stitched with Now that’s how it’s done, darlings. She skipped the runway for an old-school showroom presentation where editors, buyers, photographers and anyone wielding a phone and a Snapchat and Instagram account could get up-close with the pantheon of models—including Karlie, Kendall, Gigi and Jourdan—dancing to disco hits. Studio 54 it was not. A social media frenzy, it was. And the black-and-white slip dress Gigi Hadid wore could be bought pronto.
Von Furstenberg has been making calls to her CFDA pals all year long about how to handle the consumer-facing show idea, and she and the CFDA have been working with the Boston Consulting Group, too. But as leader of the CFDA, she needed to make a statement by dipping her toes first (or kinda of first—Tommy Hilfiger and some others already announced they would be offering see now-wear now capsules) in uncharted waters. And what better looks to do so than with pieces that made her famous— printed wrap dresses.
The lineup of models, who shimmied around a giant lip sofa, were wearing looks that riffed on the best of the Seventies. Long louche bow blouses and wide leg trousers in bright cheerful prints. Tiny Annie Hall-esque vests worn over bold rompers, argyle sweater vests and minis, midi tweed skirts. And Fur trimmed coats meant to cut a dashing figure on the streets of Manhattan.
The styling fell in step with the jolly party of the tableau and prints. But take a step back, and these styles still have a lot to offer modern women. Not every girl wants a crisp white shirt to wear to the office or a black or grey cashmere coat. No, colour and print certainly have a place in fashion, even in the most grunge/street/minimal of times.
But sometimes a collection is more about a moment in time. And this one certainly captured the inner frenzy and turmoil designers must be feeling at the pending changes. As Karlie, Kendall and Gigi formed the most glamorous conga line in gold sequinned wrap dresses and printed jumpsuits and frocks stamped with gold, it became less about the clothes and more about the state of the industry. It’s time for a shakeup. And of course DVF is in the thick of that party.
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US