Change is good, and it’s certainly the running theme in fashion. Yet it’s always jolting to see a beloved brand go through growing pains. By Fall 2017, Oscar de la Renta will have been designed by three different teams within a year: Peter Copping’s final Fall 2016; an in-house team for Spring 2017 after Copping was unceremoniously let go, and finally Fall 2017’s debut of Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia.The good thing is that Kim and Garcia are coming home to ODLR — they met while working for Mr. de la Renta, and only left, it’s rumoured, when the head job was given to Copping instead of them. The other good news is that the design team, which had to put Spring 2017 together on their own, proved that they absorbed all the best from their previous bosses, because it looked good.
For one, the first half of the collection was cohesive—red, white and black worked in florals, graphics, solid knit ruffles and lots of eyelet and lace. And it was followed up by a melange global print that worked in paisley and other motifs that ODLR loved. And because the Oscar client is ageless, there were youthful bandeaus and cropped tops paired with long pants and bohemian skirts, as well as trim sheaths, safari suits and day dresses.
One of the prettiest moments was all the white lace and eyelet, a visual palette cleanser for the lady who loves fashion and loves Oscar. It took on an elevated hippie chic spirit in long-sleeved, midi and longer dresses. And those with the black sashes and belts felt like ethereal looks pulled from Picnic at Hanging Rock.
Evening, where the brand still has a foothold on women’s wardrobes brought out the various silhouettes and finishes. All pretty and glamorous, but not telling the complete story the way the first half did.
But with a fire red strapless knee-length dress, covered in pleated frills, that was paired with flat sandals, the design team was ushering in a new age at ODLR. Or at least the promise of it. From here, the ruffle and tulle are in Kim and Garcia’s court.
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US