Lacing, bandage dressing, straps, leathers, ties, wide-leg trousers. Oh, and a smidgeon of Seventies ‘tude. All of these were served on a platter with a major side dish of want-it-now desire at Proenza Schouler. And happily, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are happy to oblige. Within hours of their fall finale, a capsule of the collection will be available to buy. Not pre-order. Buy and walk away with. So you, too, can wear your new shortened crossbody bag tucked safely under your armpit (like right under your armpit á la the runway styling).

Maximalists and minimalists will delight in this collection. For the former, patchwork rabbit coats cinched with tough-chic straps. For the latter, slim, sexy sweater dresses with cut-outs artfully placed in erogenous zones—but not so big you couldn’t get away with this look at an agency or gallery day job. And even if you are right-leaning, the high leather boots, with metal-toes—as if just the tips were dipped in gold — should do the trick.

The duo can turn out cool clothes for cool girls who are seen at night at all the right places and yet turn up in the morning fresh with great ideas. And yet, pick apart the looks, and a grey coat with off-kilter buttons and pockets is so smart and sharp. Ditto the suit jackets and vests worn earlier with wide-wide leg trousers.

There was a delicacy to the way prints were done in either asymmetric blouses and dresses or one frock that was pulled together at the bodice with wide white ribbons. It was at once sexy and crafty.

It could have been seen as fussy, with all the bandages (some left loose to drape), flaps, asymmetric hems and straps held up by what looked like sartorial pulley systems, but Hernandez and McCollough design with such an assured hand and confidence in their craft that they know when to pull back and when to let go their ideas. Creating just the right balance of doing what they want while giving their client what she wants.

From: Harper’s BAZAAR US