As models walked out on a limestone runway to classical music (curated by David Lauren), New York’s elder statesman of fashion dug in his cowboy booted heels and showed the kind of collection he built his 49-year empire on. But if you read the fine print at the bottom of the show notes, you’d have noticed that several looks would be available for purchase within 24 hours. So you know, old dog-new tricks, no doubt aided by his new young executive team.

But bringing the focus back to the clothes, Lauren served up natty men’s wear patterns in rich earthy tones and softened silhouettes. Ponchos, car coats, sweater dresses and midi skirts were worked in with shirts, vests and ties á la Annie Hall. And it all felt like a day on the country estate.

Fringed cowboy pants and silk suits with poet shirts worn under long brocade coats or with metallic boot cut jeans hit the American West note his fans rely upon. But it was the pulled back all-black gowns with just bits of brocade and embroidery that felt fresh and showed off his handy ways with drape and cut.

Because it’s Ralph’s gowns that come under the most scrutiny this time of year when starlets need frocks for the Oscars. Nominee Kate Winslet recently said she was working with the designer on a dress, and wouldn’t her grown up beauty look quite nice in one of his final gowns in rich jewel tones and gentle pleating?

In the finale, the designer showed ornamented and detailed high gloss stunners, but it was a trio of velvet gowns in red, midnight and purple that wowed for their simplicity and rich colour.

From: Harper’s BAZAAR US