The hanging lightbulbs on the Marc Jacobs runway had barely cooled before the social media-verse took umbrage over the colourful dreadlocks models were on the runway. What critics were missing was Jacobs, a devotee of pop culture, paying homage to ’80s, 90s and current fashion. (Jacobs also had models from every continent on the catwalk.) And let’s not forget how Jacobs’ seminal 1992 Grunge collection was panned and derided at the time, only to be celebrated in years to come as ahead of its time, a provocateur and translator of the zeitgeist.
Here, Jacobs stirred up a pot of his favourite motifs: cheeky sweaters, unforgivingly high shoes, kooky styling and wearable ready-to-wear mixed in with over-the-top looks and exaggerated silhouettes.
Bombers shrunk, and so did printed, patterned and sequinned dresses. Meanwhile, sweaters got long, jeans-like pants got skintight. Animal prints, camo, rugby stripes, girly intarsia knits and over-the-knee socks were worn by girls who looked like characters in in a Jacobs dream—where Marie Antoinette, club rats, ’80s cartoons and emojis frolic.
As with any Jacobs collection, it can usually be boiled down to cool, covetable clothes. Velvet and brocade party dresses and leather boots with lemon emojis will speak to the millennial set.
Sure it was crazy, but when NYFW sticks to the norm, Jacobs brings the fun, the zany, the irreverent. There will always be girls (and boys) who would happily slip into a pair of those Ziggy Stardust boots.
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US