It’s not hyperbole to say the fashion industry was rocked by the outcome of the Presidential election, and designers like Prabal Gurung who feel a strong sense of civic duty to use their platform to speak about issues were spurred into action. On the one hand, there’s the white bandana #tiedtogether campaign (started by Business of Fashion‘s Imran Amed in support of the ACLU and the UN’s Refugee Agency) and the CFDA-led Fashion Stands with Planned Parenthood movement. While on the flipside of political letdown, there is the creativity it sparks. Looking at Gurung’s opening knit coat on Bella Hadid, one thought, “Left out in the cold since November? Wrap yourself in this cozy-chic number.”
And so Gurung’s fall runway unfolded, flitting between the artistically complicated knits that are fast becoming a signature and the dreamy feminine dresses and skirts he’s built his fanbase on.
His palette was a soothing winter white and pale blue with splashes of lemon yellow, silver and red. He didn’t shy away from print and pattern or using both on fur. One especially gorgeous exit looked like a zesty yellow mink spin on camo. Optimistic, feminine yet take-no-prisoners tough.
One theme that ran throughout was an unbuttoning of seams — be it at the neck, shoulder, across the waist or dramatically down the decolletage. Tiny buttons — like you’d find on the back of a wedding dress — pulled together or revealing — detailed silver foil leaf pattern pants, crushed velvet dresses and winter white tiered frocks alike.
But Gurung puts his money where his mouth is. He’s not one for empty promises and soap box grandstanding. His runway was diverse. Yes, there were girls of every color, but there were also girls of every shape. And damn, they looked gorgeous in dresses that were every inch as sexy as the size 00 that walked before and after. His closing salvo was a parade of girls in white slogan t-shirts (read more here), a round-up of all the things people had said or quoted in 2016, from “The Future is Female” to Lin Manuel Miranda‘s “Love is Love” to “This is What a Feminist Looks Like,” which Gurung took his bow in.
By Nandini D’Souza Wolfe
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US
See more of the latest coverage from the New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2017 shows here.