For industry people who don’t go to Europe and plain old New York-based fans who manage to score a ticket, this was a bittersweet Proenza Schouler show. This will be Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez‘s last in New York City as the duo packs up to show combined pre-season and runway collections in Paris during Couture Week (for more, click here). As a final chapter to their New York story, they paid homage to the style, pace and energy of the city — and the women here who have embraced them.
Proenza girls have always prided themselves on being smart, confident and ahead of the pack — not because they try but because they have a sixth sense about things, good taste and obviously get invited. They’re the kind of “sexy” that doesn’t need lots of cleavage and tons of makeup. No. A sinuously-wrapped dress with some cut-outs, a leather dress in baby pink, a bag named after a public school. When you look at the fall collection through the filter of “New York,” you see how it captures the essence of how women dress in the Big Apple. Thinking in sartorial stereotypes, would a Los Angelina or Parisian wear the shearling-collared gray jacket? Probably not. Too warm for the former; too oversized for the latter. They would, however, walk away with the silver bag and pants.
When you look at the fall collection through the filter of “New York,” you see how it captures the essence of how women dress in the Big Apple. Thinking in sartorial stereotypes, would a Los Angelina or Parisian wear the shearling-collared gray jacket? Probably not. Too warm for the former; too oversized for the latter. They would, however, walk away with the silver bag and pants.
The duo got boldly futuristic with its shapes and finishes: tunics with metallic trim, curving cutouts and asymmetric hems; plastic-coated one-shouldered tops with graphic squiggle prints and pleated skirts; terrific-cool shearling and leather coats that pushed the notion of “classic.”
There was latex and plastic done in sophisticated, experimental squiggle tops and dresses and layers of tonal or contrasting sheaths. A single dress or top — so easy to throw on, right? The one thing about goodbyes — they’re not forever. Designers have crossed the Atlantic, only to return…
By Nandini D’Souza Wolfe
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US
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