One On One With Manish Malhotra, World-Renowned Couturier

The esteemed designer opens up about the past, present and future of his brand

By Gloria Tso - published 14 Nov 2022

There's almost nothing Manish Malhotra hasn't done throughout his storied career, from designing glamorous couture gowns to styling dozens of celebrities around the world - Sophie Turner and Naomi Campbell just to name a few. But there's much more to him than meets the eye. The esteemed designer is also equally notable for his philanthropy and entrepreneurial ventures, more of which are on the way. Below, Malhotra tells BAZAAR all about opening India's first virtual couture store, his breakthrough in the U.S. market and much, much more.

First things first, we need to walk through all the celebrities you’ve dressed throughout your career, from Priyanka Chopra to Kylie Minogue. What have been some of your most memorable looks?
I've been privileged to dress an entire generation of Indian film actors and their progeny on and off the screen, and it has been lovely styling all of them. Years ago, before I had launched Manish Malhotra Label, I had the honour of meeting the great Michael Jackson. I designed a smart-cut sherwani with trousers and a shawl with Indian embroidery art. Not only did he wear the outfit, he also thanked me on stage when he won a Humanitarian Award that night at the famous Bollywood Awards USA, which became a memorable moment for me.

You’ve styled over 1000 Bollywood movies over the years. What’re your thoughts on the intersection between fashion and film? How has your experience working on movies informed your decisions as a designer?
I view fashion in an integrated context, it encompasses styling in terms of beauty and jewellery. And my love for cinema enables me to bring my art to life. Hence, I ventured into the same. And I’ve never held back from trying new things. It excites me.

You’re a pioneer in fashion for your work with digital ventures, including NFTs. What excites you about the fashion opportunities presented by the metaverse?
My brand and I constantly believe in advancing with today's audience. The pandemic acted as a catalyst towards exploring the already-existing digital avenues like blockchain technology, metaverse, NFT, augmented reality, customisation features, virtual stores, consultations, etc. They were just mere buzzwords that have now turned into digital assets.

The past years have ushered in dramatic changes in expectations in how consumers interact with art and add new layers to collectibles/luxury purchases. We’re striving towards tapping these markets with due diligence, research, and experimental methods. Not just digital - we’re expanding our inter and intra-national horizons by introducing new segments and venturing into new tech-based business avenues.

Tell us more about opening India’s first virtual couture store. What makes this the right time for this kind of venture and how do you hope this brings fashion into the future?
The Manish Malhotra virtual store is ubiquitous, and operates anytime, anywhere, all days, and at all times. It's India’s first-ever virtual store which allows the customers to take an immersive walkthrough of the label’s Delhi flagship store and offers an innovative and extensive assortment where buyers can go through the aisles, zoom in on the products, and get the details of the item, all from the comfort of their home. The unveiling of the virtual store was “long overdue” but the decision intensified during a pandemic. Our customers were able to shop via our e-commerce site, but we wanted to offer a seamless experience to our brand, as they couldn't come down to our stores. We’re hopeful that it reaches out to markets and clusters where we’re not present and creates an opportunity for newer interactions and engagements.

Can you tell us more about your career trajectory and training, and your thoughts on bringing India to the world through your work?
I started as a costume stylist and am completely self-taught. My journey from being a costume stylist to a couturier was a very fulfilling experience. I’ve been able to generate revenue and employment, raise awareness of Indian artisans, innovate in terms of design and build a new fondness among consumers toward Indian fashion. After establishing the brand in couture, I collaborated with various artists and stakeholders to build my beauty and jewellery brand. It’s like a domino effect — I am not the only one moving forward, but I have a whole community striving toward a better future. We plan to extend our physical reach worldwide very soon through timeless, classic, and responsible collections that tell the authentic stories of Indian craft and artisans.

Now making a big splash in the U.S. market, tell us more about the 'Diffusion' collection and how you hope to explore fashion at different price points.
Diffuse is a bridge line, a new segment, and a new vocabulary. It’s consciously priced, therefore more attainable and accessible to the younger demographic with year-round wearables and separates they can mix and match to their delight. The clothes are gender-fluid, breezy, anti-fit, and edgy. Traditional couture silhouettes are contemporarised in eclectic prints, metallics, and motifs for the creative and imaginative.

Social sustainability is also embedded in your design ethos, and you’re known for giving back to your communities. What project are you most proud of?
Our constant quest is to promote the artisans of India through every possible business I venture into, whether it's couture, jewelry, or movies. We tied up with the Mijwan Welfare Society a decade ago for the women of the region to find a sense of purpose, a reason to wake up every day and a stable employment opportunity that pays far more than minimum wage. Over the years, the number multiplied, and the community grew. The vigour, drive, and enthusiasm these artisans bring to the centre daily is a testament to the fact that women in India and anywhere only need a small window of opportunity to show the world the magic they can create. These artisans are the breadwinners of their families now while they fulfil wishes of their own.

Read on for more photos of Manish Malhotra's latest Bridal Khaab collection.

*This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.