One of the biggest surprises this year was Rolex’s unveiling of what has been dubbed the “puzzle” watch, one of the most talked-about pieces at the fair. While at first it seemed like a subversion of the traditional calendar watch, the irreverent and joyful design grows on you. In place of the usual day indicator at the 12 o’clock is a changing display that reveals uplifting words such as “Love”, “Hope”, and “Gratitude” — subtle reminders not to take life too seriously.

The data window at 3 o’clock meanwhile displays one of 31 emojis that were created exclusively by Rolex, including a heart, four-leaf clover and a kissy face. The colourful dial, inspired by a jigsaw puzzle, was entirely created using champlevé enamelling—a testament to the brand’s exquisite skill. The base colour of the dial is turquoise for the white and gold versions, and orange for the Everose pink gold model (pictured). Not only did it bring a smile to the faces of those who tried it on, it also unveiled an unexpected chapter in the storied house’s history.

Everose gold and enamel Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36, Rolex

How would a jeweller approach watchmaking? Van Cleef & Arpels presents their answer in the form of the Ludo Secret Watch, a revisit of one its best-known creations from the early 20th century. Although it may sound absurd today, secret watches were designed at a time when women had to discreetly check time—it was considered a faux pas to look at one’s watch in polite company.

This gave rise to many creative and exquisite watch designs from watchmakers and jewellers, and this is also where Van Cleef & Arpels excels. The Ludo Secret Watch pays tribute to the brand’s emblematic Ludo bracelet from the 1930s. It features an articulated, meshwork bracelet that has been hand-assembled to achieve optimal flexibility. The dainty dial is connected by a buckle-like decoration comprising two circular motifs, meticulously set with diamonds or pink sapphires. Press them simultaneously, and hold to reveal the time; release and the ‘doors’ close, and the watch reverts to a dazzling piece of wrist candy.

Rose gold, mother-of- pearl and diamond Ludo Secret Watch, $222,000, Van Cleef & Arpels

Piaget released three stunning cuff watches with gemstone dials and gold bracelets showcasing the brand’s engraving methods. Particularly eye-catching is the model with the turquoise dial, which features the Palace Décor gold-engraving technique: irregular grooves of varying depths and thickness etched in rose gold, create a bark-like effect.

As this is done by hand, no two bracelets are identical. The dial itself is a work of art and appears to emerge from the jagged edges of the bracelet—resembling paper that has been torn open to reveal the surprise within. The other side of the dial that extends beyond the bracelet is bordered by a gradated row of blue sapphires. The result is luxurious, with a hint of wabi-sabi, giving it an edgier, modern appeal.

Rose gold, turquoise and sapphire Limelight High Jewellery Cuff Watch, Piaget

The Tank is probably one of the most recognisable watch silhouettes today, but few realise that the Tank Normale is the original Tank that started it all. It was known simply as the “Tank”, with the word “Normale” added later to differentiate it from the Tank Louis Cartier model which was launched later in 1922. The grandmother of all Tanks is the star of Cartier’s seventh Privé collection, comprising limited editions inspired by its most iconic timepieces.

The new iteration borrows the hallmarks from the original model designed by Louis Cartier himself in 1917, such as the bevelled sapphire crystal and inner railroad track indicating the minutes, but it has been scaled up slightly to suit the modern preference for larger timepieces. The reborn Tank Normale comes in yellow gold or platinum, paired with a hand-stitched alligator strap or matching metal bracelet. It’s also the first time that a model within the Cartier Privé collection is being presented on metal bracelets.

Privé Tank Normale platinum watch, $76,500, Cartier

Related article: 10 Best Women’s Watches Under S$10,000

Privé Tank Normale gold watch, $66,500, Cartier

The Calatrava is one of the most celebrated watches from Patek Philippe, and this new version puts a spin on the conventional dual-time watch. Its 24-hour display is inspired by the Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches made by Patek Philippe for Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau in the early 20th century. Undeniably, there are more intuitive watches when it comes to telling time, but the unusual 24-hour display sets it apart from the competition. It also eliminates the need for a separate day and night indicator, which makes for a cleaner dial design. Once you get used to how the hours are displayed, this watch offers excellent legibility. It has a relatively wide case diameter of 42mm, but the slimness of the case (9.85mm) helps retain the finesse and elegance of the Calatrava.

Rose gold Ref. 5224R Calatrava Travel Time watch with calfskin strap, $76,400, Patek Philippe

Chopard‘s Happy Sport turns 30 this year, yet remains one of the most distinctive women’s timepieces, thanks to the dancing diamonds that spin across the face of the watch. The latest version of the Happy Sport watch is downsized to a 25mm stainless steel case—the smallest to date. The more petite size that is favoured today is perhaps indicative of a desire for women to pair their watches with other jewellery pieces they own. The daintier size is complemented by a minimalist dial with the minute tracks removed. Chopard’s proprietary Lucent Steel is used for the case, which comes in all steel or steel with ethical rose gold. The watch comes in silver, blue, pink and green dials, and slim double-tour straps—perfect for stacking, mixing and matching.

Lucent Steel and diamond Happy Sport 25mm watch, $6,440, Chopard

Finding a Pilot watch that doesn’t overwhelm a slimmer wrist can be a challenge. Pilot watches, designed with legibility in mind, usually mean a large dial. Consider then, Zenith’s new Pilot Automatic that measures a large yet comfortable 40mm, and offers form, function and timeless design in one power-packed piece. The only watch brand that holds the right to put the word “Pilot” on its dials, Zenith has redesigned its Pilot collection with a rounded case and a flat-topped bezel. The steel model is vertically satin-brushed with polished chamfers, while the black ceramic version is given a micro-blasted matte finish.

The oversize onion crown is now more angular and easier to operate. Rather than a vintage-inspired aesthetic adopted by many brands, the new Zenith Pilot watch collection looks thoroughly modern, without losing its connection to the origins of the earliest Pilot watches.

Ceramic Pilot Automatic watch with interchangeable khaki and black rubber straps, $14,000, Zenith

Related article: Watches & Wonders 2022: Day 4 — Highlights from Cartier, Chopard, Piaget and Van Cleef & Arpels

Probably the most futuristic watch of the lot, the limited edition J12 Cybernetic is part of Chanel’s Interstellar capsule collection. The House’s signature timepieces, including the J12, Boy.Friend, Premiere and Code Coco, are reimagined by Arnaud Chastaingt, the head of Chanel’s Watchmaking Creation Studio, in experimental designs derived from computer graphics to cosmic elements.

The limited edition J12 Cybernetic features an asymmetric design reminiscent of a pixelated bitmap image. The lacquered dial is paired with a case in contrasting matte black and white ceramic, and the technical challenge is in cutting the ceramic at precisely sharp angles. This timepiece perfectly illustrates the convergence of light and darkness in a wonderfully unconventional manner that still manages to convey the House’s chic codes. 

Ceramic and steel J12 Cybernetic watch, $20,000, Chanel

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