Easily the most buzzed about show of the season, Demna Gvasalia didn’t disappoint for his first time out at the storied French house. The best-case scenario when taking on a brand with a rich history is imbuing a collection with nods to its DNA while modernizing it—which is exactly what Gvasalia did. Starting with cool plaid suiting with padding at the hips to create the hourglass silhouette Cristóbal was synonymous with.
Next up: the cocoon coat. Gvasalia interpreted the famed silhouette by reinventing the classics—the trench, the denim jacket, the puffer, the shearling—pulling them off the shoulder and cinching them at the waist. The show notes championed this approach as “a reimagining of the work of Cristóbal Balenciaga—a wardrobe of absolute contemporaneity and realism imbued with the attitude of haute couture. A translation, not a reiteration. A new chapter.”
The accessories didn’t disappoint: The earrings were big and silver, the bags sleek but utilitarian at heart and the boots came ultra-fitted with a sizable platform—a look the designer is also exploring at his label Vetements.
The spirit of Vetements, the three-seasons-old collection designed by Gvasalia and a collective, was evident in more than footwear. The brand has a knack for taking streetwear to elevated places—and loves an oversized floral dress. Gvasalia explored that idea for Balenciaga, pairing the pieces with either matching floral or candy cane striped tights. It’s a welcome dose of whimsy.
Gvasalia also explored denim—something we have’t seen much of from the luxury brand since Nicolas Ghesquière was at the healm—pairing a sand blasted pair with a smart ’70s-inspired leather trench. Gvasalia is here to make statements, honour Balenciaga’s past and decide what the future looks like—and we just got a very cool glimpse of what that is.
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US