Giambattista Valli is a girl’s girl designer. He likes his silhouettes feminine and pretty, and his fabrications tend to follow suit. This season he riffed off his favorite shape—the miniskirt—with skirt suits, sweater dresses, and thigh-skimming coats.

Valli’s fall/winter offering veered on the darker side, offering up prints in black and dark purple, with the occasional spattering of white tulle dresses and a dash of yellow. His woman remained playful, but more grown up, with perhaps of whiff of seriousness.

It was refreshing to see Valli send a plethora of coats down his runway in a season where most designers have blurred the line between fall/winter and spring/summer. Whether done in printed, brocade fabrications or striped fur, these were coats that are made for staying warm.

Valli’s customer can always expect a playful print from the designer, and this season he took inspiration from nature. Flowers, vines, and leaves played heavily in the collection, amongst whispy tulle and fur.

The front row was packed with Giambattista Valli’s girls, including Lee Radziwill. Bianca Brandolini, Lauren Santo Domingo, and Giovanna Battaglia—women who will take any excuse to dress up. True to form, Valli didn’t disappoint, and ended the show with a group of blossom bedecked maxi gowns.

From: Harper’s BAZAAR US