General moto? Yes, please. Haider Ackermann meshed two of the season’s biggest themes—military and motorcycle—in a terrific, uber cool collection that was louche in spirit yet tailored in finish.

Field jackets and admiral’s coats were seen throughout, done in traditional army drab or dandy-ed up in colourful houndstooth, checks and slightly tweaked haberdashery patterns. But it was in how these military motifs were worked in, or rather styled, that made this runway so appealing. An unbuttoned jacket belted over an emerald green velvet skirt with one leg slit so high, it hit the hip (shades of Margiela’s one-legged jumpsuits). Or olive used in slick, luxe patterned leggings, backed with black leather, silky tuxedo shirtings done in a mix of textures and a beautifully tailored multi-patterned coat.

Elsewhere, wool military jackets were cropped at the waist and cut an angle. It was all so sharp and architectural, it made the accenting colour palette and material that much more interesting: fuchsia silk and vibrant pink and orange-red velvet. Often, the tailored utilitarian pieces were layered under or over bright silk brocades or rich glossy velvets. You wanted to look and feel the clothes as much as you wanted to wear them.

Ackermann has solidified his reputation as a man of the sexy draped top and dress. But this season, there was not an artful droop in sight. He kept snug tops snug with just the merest hint of exaggerated shoulder. His patterned jackets were cut precisely and only the mix of rug patterns and laced up sleeves hinted at a more relaxed, almost bohemian vibe…As if this soldier spent some time absorbing the culture while posted in Asia, Africa and the Middle East.

Evening was an all-black affair, but not somber or severe at all. White-backed ruffles flared along the waist and hip of a long-sleeved skinny jumpsuit—chic. While pink or orange stripes popped on tuxedo pants worn with relaxed suits and velvet toppers.

From: Harper’s BAZAAR US