There’s a belief in Japan, called wabi sabi, that the smallest flaw, crack or imperfection only adds to the beauty and uniqueness of an object. Haider Ackermann must be a devoted student. In one of the most beautifully diverse runways, Haider Ackermann quietly yet effectively proved the power of a tuxedo and precision tailoring featuring a single graphic line that looked like cracks.
He gave himself a strict palette to work within – black an white, with a shot of electric blue and metallic details. Those parameters were liberating. Fur became a focal point used as sleeves on waisted jackets and blazer-shaped dresses or peeking out under terrific sweaters or admiral’s coat.
The tuxedo was shown in every way imaginable, each covetable. A dramatic dress over slick cropped pants; turtlenecks worn over French cuff shirts with cuffs shirts with cuffs chicly folded up; wrapped and twisted deconstructed cummerbund-like or dinner jackets twisted at the neck.
Only two looks were done in an electrifying blue pattern. Somehow, in Ackermann’s hands, tucking your dinner jacket into your pants looks flattering and drop dead on point. But this is French evening dressing at its most confident (and speaking of confidence, Nicki Minaj must have eaten her moxie Wheaties this morning because she sat serenely front row in an asymmetric blazer… one breast bare save for a nipple sticker.)
Ackermann was able to show incredible creative range within the limitations of colour and motif he gave himself. And this also translated to wearability: leather pants, slim skirts, tunics with a golden linear pattern, puffer coats, an army of jackets.
By Nandini D’Souza Wolfe
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US