To date, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski‘s Hermès collections have been subtle, sophisticated affairs, steeped in controversy-free high-high-end luxury looks that check all the boxes needed for its rarified global clientele. What’s been missing is a bit of Vanhee-Cybulski’s own personality, which started to peek through in fall’s colorful, punkish (this is Hermès—let’s not get crazy) lineup.
It started with color—from brights to pumped-up pastels, traditional camel and black played nicely against pink, orange, blue, green, red and buttery yellows. If any house is going to do cashmere and leather in multi shades, this is it.
There were touches of the equestrian in the wide leather belts and divine blanket coats, but also in the moto-meets-cavalry jackets done in light blue or black leather. Plaid in red and black felt both classic and classicly punk, while knit beanies and lace-up knee-high boots hinted at a luxe version of grunge.
The outerwear was spot on, from camel jackets edged in shearling and teal and aqua leather heritage jackets to long robe-like cashmeres that looked featherweight and sweeping carcoats.
Vanhee-Cybulski ended on the requisite Hermès scarf prints spun into silk blouses and dresses, but more interesting were the Crayola bright shearling, knit and leather separates.
By Nandini D’Souza Wolfe
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US