Being a single man — sartorially speaking — becomes Pierpaolo Piccioli. In his third solo Valentino collection since his break with longtime partner Maria Grazia Chiuri, now at Dior, Piccioli continues to tap into his artistic side, cultivating a close relationship with the Valentino clientele who can’t seem to get enough of the delicate rigor he brings to tailored femininity.
Looking to the kooky colourful work of the Italian architects Memphis Group, an early 80s firm that was much maligned until tastemakers like Karl Lagerfeld started collecting their uber bright and wacky-fun pieces, Piccioli translated the colours and movement into the graphics of his Victorian dresses and coats. Velvet and sequined dresses that hit below the knee mixed dark and moody colours with hot pinks and bright blue dotty florals while floor-length coats and loose gowns got downright trippy with various motifs, including hands, numbers and other objects.
But women are in love — nay, are obsessed — with Piccioli’s dresses. They don’t give up much skin unless it’s a rare sheer look that is usually paired with a coat. But there’s something in the long sleeves, high neck, nipped waist and intricate details that transcend sex appeal. Who needs sex when you can feel like a beautiful subject sitting for a master painter?
But girls can not live on gowns alone. And Piccioli wisely injected a few — there could be more, though — day looks. He cuts trousers nicely, a single short peacoat looks divine and any number of his prints and patterns translates easily to a blouse.
Women love Valentino, and they love it when they see it both on the runway and the red carpet (Ruth Negga’s Valentino red Oscars gown still resonates and cuts through the chaff of a week’s worth of frenetic news), but it’s even better when they can actually wear it themselves. Going forward, more of his daytime-ready looks would be just the thing.
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By Nandini D’Souza Wolfe
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US
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