Demna Gvasalia whipped up some strange brew for his Balenciaga show that mixed kink and couture. Everything about the collection begged the question “What’s happening underneath?” As in, every Balenciaga woman has her freaky side.

Neon florals, khaki, lace, latex and Spandex mixed together in a silhouettes that were pushed outside their comfort zones. Blazer and coat shoulders were hyper broad; skirts were partially attached revealing bright latex or Spandex beneath, as if the woman was caught at the very moment she’s trying to hide those naughty bits. Or perhaps she was coming out.

The shapes, drape and material were ultra luxe, many pieces detailed with a Cristobal Balenciaga-designed brooch pulled from the archives. Through colour, Gvasalia twisted the notion of couture and kink. The gentility of a beautifully draped blouse or pretty, covered up floral luncheon dress changes immediately when the colors are unexpected. Also, when they’re paired with Spandex or latex legging-boots—the ultimate twofer.

Gvasalia’s fall puffers were a hit, and he followed up with vest version this season, but the best of the outerwear was a sensational camel coat. The latex rain coat in a shade too close to skin tone to be comfortable maybe one of those things left for the magazine shoots.

As much as the latex, shoes and bags—which looked like real Moroccan poufs or storage bags for off-season blankets and pillows were—were statements, they didn’t overshadow the real clothes—the camel knit sweater, lace skirt or all the printed blouses and day dresses in hot colours.

From: Harper’s BAZAAR US