Co-designers Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud are carving out a new kind of Carven look. One that is a mash-up of prints, color and texture, pulling from youth uniforms past and present. For spring, they focused on the ’80s and ’90s mixed in with Mod silhouettes.

The duo smartly touched on more than one decade, which kept the collection from looking too costume-y. And certain details played nicely across it all— buckles looked Mod running down the front of sheath minis, and then punk worn as chokers. Appliqué lace worked in grungy layers as well as more girlish dresses.

There was even a dash of Euro prep sportiness. Sweaters and long-sleeve t-shirts with Carven crests topped multicolored handkerchief minis and cargo skirts.

The best looks were a group that touched lightly on ’80s hallmarks like acid-wash jeans, word-printed t-shirts and club kid printed open-backed booties. They worked because it was balanced with Grecian-style wrapped tops or skirts and cinched with studded and crystal belts. In other words, not literal.

The collection could use a bit more editing. Some of the overtly girlier printed dresses seemed at odds with the club kid vibe. But pieces that crossed that feminine-punk divide—like skinny cropped pants in punchy florals worn with casual tops with a robotic flower motif seen throughout the collection—felt more inspired.

From: Harper’s BAZAAR US