On the morning of Loewe’s Spring/Summer 2017 runway show, the temperature in Paris took a sudden dip. The sky was slightly cloudy, casting the city in a blanket of grey. Within the Maison de l’UNESCO, however, things were very different.
Jonathan Anderson’s latest collection for Loewe is a clever continuation of what made his fall/winter 2016 showing a runway hit. Described last season by the Irish designer as a “Swiss doctor’s wife in a very expensive apartment looking at the Alps”, the Loewe woman has now left her mountain abode and headed to her summer home where there’s plenty of sunshine.
Her largely fit-and-flare outfits are an inspired curate of stuff one can find at lying about at home: A foldable bag in suede was made to resemble an age-old rug, while a patchwork coat evoked the quilted blankets grandmothers used to make. The handkerchief skirts returned (so did the corsets), except they were constructed from fabrics resembling table cloths. Cotton and linen made their presence felt on peasant blouses, dresses and coats; the edges left raw to achieve the feel of clothes that looked lived in—just like a home should.
By Gerald Tan