Guillaume Henry’s new vision of Nina Ricci, once overtly feminine and delicate, is one that mixes motifs—men’s wear tailoring and feminine frills. It’s a sure-fire combination that nevertheless needs dynamic designs and concepts to avoid looking like the rest. For spring, Henry chose surprising colours and worked stripes in every manner.
Bold, thick vertical stripes paired nicely with the ’80s vibe of Henry’s silhouettes—high-waisted trousers, big blouses and tops with relaxed shoulders. Even tonal purple velvet and animal print alternated lines. And if the clothes weren’t striped, the little leather bags were.
Relaxed tailoring—extra long, loose double-breasted blazers, straight-leg pants, slim midi skirts—recalled the business dress uniform of the ’80s. But in lavender and leopard, paired with parachute trenches or cargo pocket detailing, this isn’t just a working girl wardrobe.
All the purple felt fresh and seasonless, a smart move for a designer trying to prove himself to his new parent company. Deep purple silks against dark neutrals and all those plum-my and navy separates will have legs in fall temperatures, too.
And like an homage to the late, great Prince, purple reigned for evening with striped tanks and sequinned skirts and sheaths. They were sexy, interesting and worthy of violet-loving femmes.
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US