Alessandro Dell’Acqua is the master of drape, a technique he honed at his own company and which he has installed over the last few years as de rigueur of Rochas. Spring’s drape came via modern, color blocked Grecian gowns.

A pretty gown is a pretty gown, but here, Dell’Acqua mixed color in interesting and off-kilter ways. Saturated tones offered a jolt pastels while brights emboldened neutrals.

There was also a lot of knit layers over or under the more delicate dresses. But there was nothing grungy about it. It felt more like an update on ’50s letterman dressing, with R’s embroidered into the sweaters and shirts.

Drapes, pleats, ruches and ruffles were worked in every direction, sometimes on one gown. At its best, the effect was lovely and ultra feminine. The only few missteps were bowling shirts that read too boxy and unflattering over wide, tulle-y skirts.

Swiss dots, embroidered florals and lace added texture in places, but it was the simple combination of a knit t-shirt worn with a layered tulle and Swiss dot skirt that felt like the coolest spin on evening.

From: Harper’s BAZAAR US