On the seats at Céline’s Spring/Summer 2017 show were black-and-white print-outs bearing a quote by American artist-writer Dan Graham: “I want to show that our bodies are bound to the world, whether we like it or not…” It provided a clue to what’s in store at Phoebe Philo‘s latest outing at the brand, where, within the Tennis Club de Paris, the designer had the artist install a pared-back set of glass panels that curved this way and that down the centre of hall.

“Social interaction, fantasy, and life in general are the main driving forces in my work and Dan Graham’s installation is therefore an interesting and powerful way for me to present my collection to the audience,” she said via a release.

To that point, models walked around those in clothes that linked form and function even tighter together; the shapes and lines cast through the reflections of the audience on the glass.

Suits were cut beautifully loose for ease of movement. Or lightweight dresses that were feminine yet held back the saccharine factor. A checked coat on Saskia de Brauw had cut-outs by the side, then twisted at the back for extra talking point.

Elsewhere, a cape draped over a dress recalled Lawrence of Arabia. Paired with comfortable sneakers, it’s almost as if the Céline woman is an adventurer who’s always ready to find her way in the world.

By Gerald Tan