The first look in Jonathan Anderson’s fall collection for Loewe — a leather-trimmed dark plaid coatdress with riding boots — summed up the young designer’s savvy approach to art, commerce, social media and desire. Campaign images of none other than Gisele Bundchen, out of retirement, photographed by Steven Meisel, went live around Paris in certain media outlets two days prior, creating a stir and instant desire for a coat that won’t be available for six months.
Anderson’s other savvy move was to blend his heady intellectualism with stone-cold commercialism. Everyone is loving leather and plaid this season and he presciently whipped his up with crafty flourish. Yellow and brown leather were pleated, pinched and pintucked into ruffled skirts and peplum shirts or an astounding yellow shirtdress.
He also unleashed knits in a major way, from slinky knit column gowns and snug t-shirt sweaters to sweet intarsia Fair Isles, some with Loewe worked into the yoke — a branding moment that’s hard to miss. Intarsia patterns and that fuzzy feeling were carried over into easy-to-hold, sling or clutch bags that are a retail favourite.
There was romance, too — Anderson is the ultimate modern romantic. Loose silhouettes like tunics and sheer skirts over pants mixed with large dotted tops worn with ruffled smock dresses and coats with exaggerated neck bows, off-the-shoulder gowns like out of a novel, all done in suedes, plaids, stripes and other patterns that toed the line between rustic and refined.
Mixing it all up — arty influences, high-intensity craftsmanship, day-to-day — continues to serve Anderson well at this nearly two-centuries-old brand. And a little humour, one that shows he doesn’t take himself at least that seriously goes a long way. The airplane charm necklaces are just the thing to photograph and wear.
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By Nandini D’Souza Wolfe
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US
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