Virgil Abloh titles his fall collection “Nothing New” and referenced a Marcel Duchamp anecdote when the artist took a urinal out of context, renamed it “fountain” and declared it a work of art. Beauty is all in perspective and point of view, you see. And as Abloh continues to make a play for the major leagues, serving up more thoughtful collections like this – where standard fashion ideas are tweaked – will serve him well.
Amidst a misty fall path, girls walked out in various sartorial archetypes – men’s wear plaid, street denim and romantic chiffon. But it was in the way they were mixed up, toyed with and reworked (and also accessorized with Adidas) that made things interesting and cool. Like a pink flowing gown worthy of a distressed damsel worn with a trim plaid and classic court shoes, a paper-bag-style bag tucked under her arm.
This was one of the neatest ways denim has shown up – distressed, a little bit dirty, with athletic laces, roomy, cropped and in the case of the skirts, with an asymmetric ruffle. Pair with a sheer top or fur stole and spiky heels.
Lasercut blue velvety suede felt positively gothic even when done as a terrific bomber and minidress combo or when worn with a cropped hoodie. It’s like Abloh looked into the soul of Gigi Hadid and Zayn off-hours and came up with post-millennial sartorial gold.
But Abloh smartly showed high with low. Namely a great blue fur chubby with nicely cut tuxedo pants (he’s learning the technical ropes, he wanted to prove), and the evening lineup of lacy sheer gowns in blue, black and nude. Nice, but not as interesting or cool as his day looks.
By Nandini D’Souza Wolfe
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US