All eyes were on Saint Laurent where Anthony Vaccarello, just two seasons into his stint as creative director, opened Paris Fashion Week with Kate Moss, Catherine Deneuve and a host of other YSL muse-icons sitting front and centre. It was rainy and cold, people complained and the construction site staging added to the pre-show gloom. Good thing Vaccarello showed up with a mega-sized show — women’s and men’s — that married both his favourites and a reworking of house signatures. Not to mention enough crystals to make disco balls the world over jalouse.
Vaccarello loves leather; Yves Saint Laurent the founder loved ruffles and ready-to-wear wardrobing. Put them together and you’ve got a heady mix of separates that are understandable but fun. Leather mini skirts and dresses with dramatic plumes of ruffles, worn with sensational shearlings, skintight jeans or workmen’s jackets.
There were hints of Le Smoking in peak-shouldered evening jackets or tux-like details that showed up on lacy tops and black jeans that did double-duty for after hours. Tuxedo shirt ruffling was amped up and used to detail mini dresses in black and emerald, and corsages showed up as leather chokers.
Leather, patent, suede, velvet — it was all here for day. But for evening, sequins stole the show. Silver shiny bits glistened on louche blouses, in the pinstripes of a coat or the lapels of a jacket, the cable of a knit fisherman and along the shoulders of a drop-dead black mini dress. Crystals also shined a spotlight on ruched booties with an ’80s beat.
There was a pretty large party on this runway of little black dresses that featured some kind of architectural fold rimmed with silver that either uncovered and framed a shoulder or sprang forth like a glitzy wing. It was a strong sophomore effort for Vaccarello, one that intimated he was balancing his vision with that of those who have come before to keep the initials YSL some of the most trusted in the fashion lexicon.
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By Nandini D’Souza Wolfe
From: Harper’s BAZAAR US
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