Riccardo Tisci’s spring/summer 2022 men’s collection for Burberry marked the furthest he has ever ventured outside of the well-established Burberry codes—those codes namely being prim, proper, and very British. As a result, it was also his most personal collection yet at the English brand, delving deep into the designer’s obsession with the intersections of the street and the salon, punk and polish, sex appeal and subversion.
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He opened the show with a trench coat, but this was not the Burberry classic as you know it—its sleeves had been chopped off and Tisci layered it over a tight white tee and narrow black trousers. The rest of the collection continued to be a variation of that silhouette—lean, mean, and showing plenty of skin—and an exercise in deconstruction. Armholes were cut away; tops had their entire backs cut out—held together by belt straps in the back or suspended off halter necks; and workwear straps curved around the torso like a ribcage.
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The amount of black leather in the collection and the way Tisci utilised it gave the overall affair a fetishistic feel—black leather aprons over black leather trousers; black leather trunks underneath a sliced-open boat-neck trench. Balancing out the sense of kink was a touch of punk—most notably in the faux piercings that studded the faces of the models. The palette was equally graphic, with black, white, and tan as the main colours—punctuated occasionally by pops of red, bits of blush and oxblood, and the occasional female model in silver sequins. Taken together with the rest of the offering, the handful of womenswear looks here served to reinforce the subversive glamour, street edge and sex appeal that Tisci clearly has in mind for this new chapter of Burberry.
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