Review Of Burberry Men’s Fall/Winter 2021 Collection
Riccardo Tisci presents a tight edit for his first standalone men’s collection, mixing English countryside codes with his brand of urbane glamour.
Riccardo Tisci was stuck indoors under lockdown while creating his first solo men’s collection for Burberry. Naturally, his mind wandered where his body couldn’t. “I dreamt of the outdoors and its beauty, fuelled by the thought of the creativity that comes when we are together.” Those dreams translated into new takes on traditional English countryside dressing. As befits both Tisci’s inspiration of the season and the House he works for, there is a strong focus on outerwear—the classic Burberry trenchcoat was sliced in certain sections, hybridised with other garments, or simply and chicly tied around the waist with silk scarves; duffle coats were made sleeker; and varsity jackets were reconstructed anew.
Continuing the outdoorsy theme and the feeling of escape, many of the pieces conveyed a sense of movement through fringe, pleats and panels. Animal motifs were another Tisci signature that got plenty of airtime in this collection—there were photographic prints of fur, shoes sculpted like deer hooves, beanies in the shape of doe ears, and shaggy faux fur coats with bunny-ear hoods. Almost three years in, there are now a lot more Tisci-isms in Burberry—the kilts, the skintight leather sock boots, the rugby influences, the ceremonial gold fringing were all classic Tisci touchpoints recontextualised for now.
Scroll through the gallery below for the full collection.