For spring/summer 2022, Erdem Moralioglu channels two influential women who lived in and epitomised Edwardian London Society. The first is poet Edith Sitwell, who was known for her innovative works as well as her eccentric sense of style. The second woman is Ottoline Morrell, a patron of the arts responsible for bringing many great literary and artistic names together in her Bloomsbury home.
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The collection conjures up visions of Sitwell, draped insouciantly over a chaise. Her penchant for mixing period pieces into her daily wardrobe are reimagined by Moralioglu by way of unexpected pairings, like the incongruous patchwork of mismatched prints, and the pairing of lace and poplin with raw linen. The oversized hats, which came in matching prints to their counterpart large-scale floral dresses, were a direct reference to those that Morrell famously wore.
Sitwell and Morrell were rebels in their times and Erdem’s latest collection reflects that. Think a bubble-sleeved floral gown that features cascading frills, or a full-skirt waxed cotton trench coat. And in a final rebellious act, these bourgeois looks are styled down with boyish brogues making the collection modern.
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