Though fashion’s yearning for newness is its single greatest defining attribute, it’s arguably more difficult than ever to conceive something totally unprecedented, especially in this digital age. But creative director Jonathan Anderson seems to have an uncanny way of making every new Loewe offering feels fresh and original. Case in point: Loewe’s fall/winter 2022 collection.
Just like the huge melting pumpkin sculptures that dotted the show space (created by Anderson’s long-time collaborator British artist Anthea Hamilton), the collection presented is a creative play on the usage of materials. That which should be soft and malleable, like leather, wool and organza, are moulded, felted and starched, respectively, to take on rigid forms, seemingly frozen mid-walk. Giant lips are solidified as breastplates on silk dresses, and water balloons - yes, water balloons - appear as the cups of bralettes are strapped on bodycon jersey dresses, plus unexpected shoes sunk in some kind of drawstring-bags.
On the other hand, materials that should be solid become plush, giving rise to unexpected silhouettes — jersey dresses that looked like they were shrink-wrapped around miniature cars, as well as pointed stilettos that are placed at the bust and hip of mesh column dresses.
The idea of newness was also translated by Anderson in the form of puffer blousons, puffed up knit dresses, kinky denim boots as well as seatbelt sandals.
As the show notes state, this is a collection that is all about “fashion that entices a reaction, stripped bare to a crude primitiveness with the thrill of kink.”
Related article: Review Of Loewe's Spring/Summer 2022 Collection