Time travel is a constant theme for creative director Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton; it’s also something that characterises the ecosystem of filmmaking. Case in point: The 1996 film Irma Vep, directed by French director Olivier Assayas. This is a movie about remaking Les Vampires, a 1915 French silent film series by Louis Feuillade; and the upcoming HBO series Irma Vep is loosely based on the remake of the 1996 film, which was about the remake. So where does Ghesquière come in in this whole equation? Well, he is designing the costume for the series, including the outfits of house ambassador Alicia Vikander. Naturally, the film served as inspiration for Louis Vuitton’s spring/summer 2022 collection.
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Befittingly dubbed “an invitation to le grand bal of Time”, the show was held at the Musée du Louvre, with models walking through Passage Richelieu. This normally public walkway that connects Rue de Rivoli to the centre courtyard of the Louvre was rendered unrecognisable by a lavish cascade of chandeliers.
The collection samples the eras liberally. There are the 1920s-inspired slinky silhouettes, but often cut through with denim. Baroque collars accompany laser-cut dresses, and lace-panelled blouses are worn with cargo pants. Then there is ballroom elegance with skirts that are blown out of proportion into ‘ellipses’, then paired with oversized tuxedo jackets as well as leather and velvet sandals rendered in electric colours and polka dot prints.
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