It’s very telling that the world of celebrities and influencers haven’t had enough of Miuccia Prada’s Miu Miu spring 2022 offerings. Just look at all the midriff action outside of the brand’s fall/winter 2022 show venue. That crop top and miniskirt set has became archetypal almost instantly after the last season’s showing, manifesting in countless reposts and good-natured spoofs on TikTok, and splashed on magazine covers the world over.
This current collection, nimbly picking up the top notes from the previous collection, is all about the transition from workwear to sports uniforms — a recurring theme in the house’s code. The low hung micro-mini treatment given to work skirts last season is now applied to the tennis skirt. Polo shirts are cropped or interrupted with transparent panels, revealing a hint of lingerie underneath. Continuing that play on intimate wear and outerwear, silk bras and knickers peek from the tops of skirts and pants, and underneath sheer beaded slip dresses. If the length of skirts raised eyebrows last season, this latest collection is all about the cheek baring tweed shorts, made extra insouciant by the addition of oversized coats. Looks are subversively styled with long socks and ballet flats. Other highlights include a sprinkle of cowboy grunge — introduced in the form of distressed aviator jackets and double-belted leather pants — slung as low as possible.
This push and pull of referencing civilised dress codes recalls the spirit of adolescent rebellion, when high school girls would hike up the skirts as or push down our socks at the risk of detention — and that’s just so much fun.