Where last season Stuart Vevers riffed on the icons and codes of ‘80s fashion, this season he zoomed in on the ‘90s—the era of grunge, when sleek, glossy glamour gave way to a rawer sensibility driven by individuality. It was a period best epitomised by Corrine Day’s seminal photographs of Kate Moss and the supermodel fittingly made an appearance in the brand’s Juergen Teller-lensed video and lookbook. Starring alongside Moss was an inclusive, diverse cast of today’s most recognisable faces—Paloma Elsesser, Megan Thee Stallion, Hari Nef, Jeremy Lin, Jon Batiste, Kiko Mizuhara, Kelsey Lu I and Cole Sprouse amongst them.
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The clothes were a period-faithful throwback: Washed-out floral or striped dresses worn over retro tees or slouchy socks and logo sneakers, slip dresses paired with fuzzy slippers—layered and sprinkled throughout with faded denims, plaid suits, striped cottons and rough-hewn knits. The homespun, DIY quality of the embroideries on most of the looks amplified the vintage vibes. In a stroke of brilliance, the collection was composed of new pieces, archival Vevers designs and vintage Coach from decades past. Like a greatest-hits parade, Vevers brought back his most iconic designs, from the Apollo sweater of his first season to the Basquiat pieces of the last.
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The brand also doubled down on its commitment to sustainability—bags were made of vegetable-tanned, naturally-dyed leathers; totes came from recycled plastic bottles; and some of the ready-to-wear was assembled from upcycled fabrics. As the industry increasingly grapples with its impact on the environment, this is a commendable first step on the right path forward.