Alessandro Michele’s Gucci shows are known for their cinematic proportions, and never has this been more true than for the Italian brand’s Love Parade show staged last night in Los Angeles with movie stars—including Jared Leto, Macaulay Culkin, Miranda July, and Jodie Turner-Smith—on the runway, Gwyneth Paltrow re-creating her iconic Tom Ford–era Gucci tux look on the front row, and the shimmering lights of Hollywood Boulevard as the backdrop. “HOLLYWOOD seemed a bright and shiny star,” Michele wrote in his show notes, explaining the glamorous aesthetic of golden age cinema that often informs his collections. “Nine letters dripping with desire.”
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When Michele was a boy growing up in Rome, he was entranced by his mother’s tales of her work for a film production company. “I remember all the stories she told me, and the details and the sparkles, about that dream factory. There was the alabaster paleness of Marilyn Monroe and her diaphanous voice,” he said. “There were the black satin gloves of Rita Hayworth and Veronica Lake’s velvet hair, as well as the bewitching allure of Rock Hudson and Kim Novak’s dizzying transformative power. Everything felt like a fairy tale.”
These childhood icons—and many more stars of the silver screen—made cameos throughout the collection. Marilyn’s black satin gloves came paired with a gold plunge column gown that gave very Gentlemen Prefer Blondes vibes. They also appeared in a lace version, complementing a tiered lace dress worn by Quannah Chasinghorse, and with laces, teamed with a pink slip and tiara on Tess McMillan that channeled Sissy Spacek’s Carrie prom look. Oversize menswear-inspired tailoring made famous by Marlene Dietrich was a recurring motif, including her iconic tux, updated in pink.
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There was a certain timelessness to the 115 look parade, which featured a number of sequined and maraboued showstoppers that wouldn’t look out of place on Jean Harlow or Ginger Rogers, but that will probably be making an appearance on an awards show red carpet in 2022. “This boulevard of stars lends perfect support to my uncurbed love for the classical world,” Michele said. “Hollywood is, after all, a Greek temple populated by pagan divinities. Here actors and actresses are acknowledged as heroes of the myth: hybrid creatures with the power to hold divine transcendence and mortal existence at the same time.”
This article originally appeared in Harper’s BAZAAR US