Jeremy Scott’s knack for creating a digital fantasy world is apparent since his puppet runway show for Moschino’s Spring Summer 2021 collection. This season, he sets the scene in a romanticised 1940s Manhattan salon inspired by the 1939 George Cukor film The Women, with a star-studded cast that include Dita Von Teese, Winnie Harlow and Stella Maxwell daintily sipping tea in ’40s silhouettes, before veteran model Maye Musk, who plays the role of the evening’s glamorous maître de, introduces the show within the show.
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Then, as curtains part, other characters start strolling in: Hailey Beiber as a Wall Street yuppie with an impossibly tiny fedora; Shalom Harlow as a wild cat complete with ears and tail, and Kristy Hume as a glamorous windmill. Tongue-in-cheek and literal references are aplenty, like the cows on rolling green hills printed on a milk-maid-inspired gown on Miranda Kerr and a skirt suit on Soo Joo Park. As both models walk through a backdrop, you notice that it is also painted with cows on rolling green hills. Amber Valetta’s golden crocodile suit comes with a floor-length tail, and Joan Smalls is a life-sized trophy statuette in a winged gown.
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While the collection remains faithful to the ‘40s silhouettes, it is Scott’s touch of humour and irony that made the looks unmistakably Moschino. The pink gown on Stella Maxwell, for example,is decorated with silk purses, with their clip closures as embellishment on the bodice as well as the opening of the gloves and boots. The ‘polka dots’ on a sequinned trench coat turns out to be Scott’s signature smiley faces. The peplum skirt suit on by Carolyn Murphy is embellished with biker jacket zippers, which surprisingly, did not seem out of place at all.
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