At Salvatore Ferragamo‘s Fall Winter 2021 show, we fly head-on into a wormhole that transports us to the imposing gates of a futuristic cityscape clothed under the soft light of dusk. Inside, the citizens of the walk through a futuristic space.
Creative Director Paul Andrew has unabashedly embraced the digital format in producing this pre-recorded runway video, using seamless LED screens in place of the green screen to create his story of the future. This technique is highly lauded as a paradigm shift, fuelling acclaimed creations such as The Mandalorian. In the video, models walk precariously along the rooftops of the city, and the computer generated skyscrapers recede into a very believable and immersive skyline.
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Though contextually it is made clear this is a scene from an imagined future, the collection is utterly recognisable. The streamlined vests, pants and jumpsuits, often worn by models in monotone looks, serve up spacesuit vibes — the new uniforms of the future — that blends easily in a scene of the movie The Matrix (a cinematic influence for the collection), as on the streets of 2021. However it is not so easy to distinguish a particular era or culture. Classic archetypes are also deconstructed and reconstructed that blatantly disregard any genre. ‘Space-biker’ boots are worn with full length gowns, translucent rain capes float atop impeccably tailored pants, and evening gowns and loungewear hoodies are both reimagined in ultra-soft mohair knit, topped with reflective sunglasses. A silver chainmail, which appears in slinky pants and floor length dresses (worn by models sporting silver body paint from feet to chin), brings to mind medieval knights. Inspiration for this collection is drawn from diverse worlds of military and sport. In fact, a lot of pieces in this collection are unisex, worn in the co-ed show by both male and female models.
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The concept of sustainability is also top of mind for Andrews. Materials used include post-consumer recycled polyester, leather tanned through certified lower environmental impact processes, and recycled pre and post-consumer wool and cashmere.
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