A year on since taking Saint Laurent off the fashion week calendar, Anthony Vaccarello has made his cinematic ambitions for the brand clear. For fall/winter 2021, he’s even managed to one-up the epicness of last season’s presentation. First, the breathtaking locations; where last season was filmed against a seemingly endless desert, this season, there were rocky cliffs, plunging waterfalls, black-sand beaches, mountain trails and giant ice floes.
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That sense of drama extended to the clothes too, the harsh and wintery backdrop throwing into sharp relief the colour and the glamour of the collection. Where last season was about ease and a certain restrain, this season, the Saint Laurent woman is back in statement-making pieces perfect for peacocking. These were clothes meant to be seen and then perhaps, taken off. Sex was clearly on Vaccarello’s mind—the collection veered short, tight and shiny, with plenty of midriff, legs and decolletage on show.
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There was a Sixties spirit here in the way Vaccarello cut his shapes—lean, sharp, compact—mixed with an undercurrent of the Eighties in the collection’s body-consciousness, the maximalist jewellery (giant four-leaf clover chokers framing the face, gobs of crystals dangling off the ears), and in the bold, almost brash, colour palette of jewel tones and acidic brights. Yves was a master colourist, with a flair for surprising but seductive colour clashes. Here, Vaccarello paid tribute to that legacy while updating it to reflect how women dress today and want to dress as they reemerge into the world.
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