Like many of us, Paul Andrew spent most of quarantine bingeing on films. On top of his list were Alfred Hitchcock classics like Vertigo, Marnie and The Birds and the director’s rich, cinematic sensibility was a clear influence on Andrew’s spring/summer 2021 collection for Salvatore Ferragamo. Inspired by the icy chic of Hitchcock heroines like Kim Novak and Tippi Hedren, Andrew sent out a collection that was sharp and sophisticated, enlivened by Technicolor hues.
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It was a highly polished affair, but never sterile thanks to Andrew’s vivid use of colour. Pistachio, buttercup, mauve, sky blue and blush pink shades were played off against stone and sand hues. He also injected a softness and sensuousness that felt new compared to his previous outings for the House. The prevalence of craft further enriched the tactility of the collection, evident in the feather adornments, perforated leathers, honeycomb knits and a string skirt that looked like it was floating. As befit the brand and the designer’s history, shoes were a standout, from the square-toed slingbacks to new versions of the iconic F-wedge.
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Playing up the cinematic mood, Andrew enlisted Luca Guadagnino to shoot a short film that preceded the runway show. Atmospheric, suspenseful shots of models wandering around an eerily empty Milan were interspersed with lush close-ups of bags, shoes and the models’ mystery-filled gazes. In a clever, synergistic move, the vibrant Technicolor used by the director further amplified the brilliant palette deployed by Andrew.