There is skin on show, silhouette shifts, and even one surprise comeback. Jeffrey Yan takes a closer look at the spring/summer 2023 trends.
This season, designers dared us to bare by cutting shorts that sit high on the thigh, and pairing them with everything from workwear to formalwear. The fresh proportions lent a dash of subversion to well- known tropes. At Ami, for instance, prep mainstays like plaids and pinstripes got a new attitude when worn with cut-off chinos. At Prada, beige trench coat dressing was jolted by black leather hot pants, which also lent a frisson to LOEWE’s soft pastel knits.
Wales Bonner spring/summer 2023
Ami spring/summer 2023
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Dries Van Noten spring/summer 2023
CELINE HOMME spring/summer 2023
Prada spring/summer 2023
LOEWE spring/summer 2023
Designers injected glamour into the male wardrobe this season by turning the shine on. Shimmering, glittering fabrics transformed suits and separates in relatively restrained silhouettes into stage-worthy spectacles, but a tone-on-tone approach ensured the look was more louche rockstar instead of Liberace—as seen with Gucci’s oxblood sequinned pyjamas, Marni’s lustrous lavender velvets, and Valentino’s dark-chocolate, crystal-encrusted shorts-and-sweater set.
Marni spring/summer 2023
Rick Owens spring/summer 2023
Valentino spring/summer 2023
Moschino spring/summer 2023
CELINE HOMME spring/summer 2023
Sex- and body-positivity have been percolating in fashion for a while now, and this season, both spilled onto the men’s runways in full force as designers found inventive new ways to spotlight the male figure. Their approach was to play a game of conceal/reveal with sheer layers and panels—the fact that you can’t quite see it all made it all the more tantalising. Raf Simons, Dion Lee and Eckhaus Latta threw mesh tops over easy athletic trousers, while Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino inserted see- through shirts under his slouchy suits.
Dior Men spring/summer 2023
Ludovic de Saint Sernin spring/summer 2023
Dion Lee spring/summer 2023
Raf Simons spring/summer 2023
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Long associated with corporate drudgery and grandfatherly wardrobes, the necktie seemed to be on its way out—especially after the pandemic upended traditional work norms and its dress codes. This season, however, designers have revived it en masse—giving it a cool new look in the process. MSGM and Kenzo both used it to subvert the schoolboy uniform. The necktie also featured prominently in Dries Van Noten’s exploration of the masculine and the feminine, and Dolce & Gabbana’s treatise on ’80s glamour.
Dries Van Noten spring/summer 2023
MSGM spring/summer 2023
Kenzo spring/summer 2023
Craig Green spring/summer 2023
While shorts and tops are getting progressively tinier, jeans are going in the opposite direction. If you needed any more proof that bigger is better, the spring/ summer 2023 collections were it. Spearheading the movement was Glenn Martens, who has completely revitalised Diesel with his artfully blown-up, distressed jeans. On the other end of the luxury spectrum was Bottega Veneta, where Matthieu Blazy has ignited fierce desire for his slouchy leather-as-denim propositions.
Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2023
Hed Mayner spring/summer 2023
JW Anderson spring/summer 2023
Diesel spring/summer 2023
Fendi spring/summer 2023
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Bottega Veneta spring/summer 2023
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- TAGS:
- Fashion
- Spring/Summer 2023