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Jewels & Watches

Up Close With Rare High Jewellery Watches From Donald E. Gruenberg

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Jewels & Watches

Up Close With Rare High Jewellery Watches From Donald E. Gruenberg

These unique watches—by the likes of Dali, Gilbert Albert, and Andrew Grima—are all the style inspiration you need

October 27, 2016

If recent runways are any indication, the 1960s and 70s are back with a vengeance. Groovy period fashion has obvious contemporary relevance, but anyone looking for style inspiration should feast their eyes these ultra-rare, high-jewellery timepieces designed in the same era. Watch brands like Piaget, Omega, and Patek Philippe commissioned renowned jewellery designers like Gilbert Albert and Andrew Grima, often producing special one-of-a-kind timepieces.

Vintage watch dealer Justin Gruenberg, whose site The Keystone is a destination for collectors, keeps a sharp lookout for these rare pieces at his father’s eponymous Beverly Hills boutique, Donald E. Gruenberg. Discovering a few of the Gruenberg’s unique treasures on 1stdibs led us to even more buried treasure.

We spoke to Justin about his unique and very personal collection.

What attracted you to watches from this unique period? Do you have a favourite?

“Many of these pieces were wild in their designs, totally sculptural, artistic, and decorative. My interest, in particular, is in ‘jewelry watches.’ Their designs often overpower or supersede their functionality.”

“As a dealer of watches, I can’t get attached to too many pieces. I have one highly geometrical Chopard retailed by Kutchinsky that I just can’t sell. I bought this piece around six years ago at the Miami Beach Antique show. At the time, I paid a price that my father thought was outrageously high. In retrospect, I got a pretty fair deal on a truly one-of-a-kind piece. I would’ve paid double that price. I think when I like something I have trouble holding back!“

Any interesting anecdotes about any of the watches? 

“I one time flew to Japan to buy a Piaget necklace, watch, earrings, and ring set. I heard it was coming up for sale at a local auction in a small town in the south of Japan. A friend in Tokyo notified me of this. I hopped on a plane a few days later and met up with him to buy the set. Luckily, I was the highest bidder. I absolutely love this set and have never offered it for sale. Maybe keeping it allows me to be constantly reminded of the story of acquiring it. Finding these pieces for me is mostly about the hunt. I am addicted to searching things out. Often after I buy them, I am onto the next one.”

Do you think there is a resurgence in interest in jewelry and watches from this period?

“Of course. I think jewellery and watches from this era are becoming increasingly more collectible and valuable. They are nostalgic to people that grew up in the 1960s and 1970s. To us younger folks, they represent a time in history when jewellery and watches were funkier often having bright colours and hand-finished gold work. After this period, the jewellery and watch industry expanded greatly, which created a much greater market for items, however, we saw such an influx of poor quality and mass-produced items. I believe that the 1960s and 1970s pieces will become increasingly more collectible as people want something is more unique and rare.”

Any current watches that you love that might be considered the modern day equivalent of these pieces?

“That is a very interesting question. For me, it is hard to find modern pieces that bring the same joy as the vintage counterparts. It is difficult to find ‘a hand’ in the current made pieces. They often feel mass-produced as the gem work is often machine-set and the finishing does not have the same feeling. This is not to say there are no great designs that currently being made. Piaget still makes incredible art pieces, and so does Cartier.”

From: Town and Country

https://www.harpersbazaar.com.sg/gallery/watch-auction-donald-gruenberg/
Up Close With Rare High Jewellery Watches From Donald E. Gruenberg
Corum 18k yellow gold integrated woven bracelet watch with peacock feather dial
image

Rare High Jewelry Watches from Donald E. Gruenberg

Donald E. Gruenberg, $11,500 on 1stdibs.com
Chopard 18k yellow gold with lapis lazuli, turquoise, onyx and diamonds.
image

Rare High Jewelry Watches from Donald E. Gruenberg

Personal collection of Donald E. Gruenberg, not for sale
Omega watch designed by Gilbert Albert. TriColor gold cover-watch
image

Rare High Jewelry Watches from Donald E. Gruenberg

Donald E. Gruenberg, available in our shop $12,500
Piaget 18l gold link watch with 22k coin designed and signed by Salvador Dali, circa 1966. Manual wind movement
image

Rare High Jewelry Watches from Donald E. Gruenberg

Donald E. Gruenberg, $25,000 available on 1stdibs.com
Gilbert Albert 18k yellow gold nugget covered watch with black lava-like stone
image

Rare High Jewelry Watches from Donald E. Gruenberg

Donald E. Gruenberg, $25,000 on 1stdibs.com
Vacheron Constantin 18k yellow gold link bracelet with watch with inlaid wood and lapis lazuli dial
image

Rare High Jewelry Watches from Donald E. Gruenberg

Donald E. Gruenberg, $14,500 on 1stdibs.com
Patek Philippe 18k asymmetrical pocket watch with chain and fob designed by Gilbert Albert
image

Rare High Jewelry Watches from Donald E. Gruenberg

Donald E. Gruenberg, $14,500 1stdibs.com
Piaget 18k yellow gold link bracelet with tigerseye stone dial
image

Rare High Jewelry Watches from Donald E. Gruenberg

Donald E. Gruenberg, $25,000 on 1stdibs.com
Piaget four piece set. Turquoise, lapis lazuli, diamonds, set in 18k white gold
image

Rare High Jewelry Watches from Donald E. Gruenberg

Personal collection of Donald E. Gruenberg, not for sale
Patek Philippe 18k yellow gold, coral, and diamond watch on black crocodile strap, circa 1970s.
image

Rare High Jewelry Watches from Donald E. Gruenberg

Donald E. Gruenberg, $12,500 on 1stdibs.com.
Patek Philippe attributed to Gilbert Albert, earrings, necklace and watch set. 18k Yellow gold nuggety finished with chryscola and azurite stones
image

Rare High Jewelry Watches from Donald E. Gruenberg

Circa 1960, $125,000, 1stdibs.com
Patek Philippe 18k yellow gold bracelet watch with inlaid lapis lazuli and diamond set bezel
image

Rare High Jewelry Watches from Donald E. Gruenberg

Donald E. Gruenberg, $45,000
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MCI (P) 031/12/2022. Published by SPH Media Limited, Co. Regn. No. 202120748H. Copyright © 2023 SPH Media Limited. All rights reserved.