Van Cleef & Arpels Unveils New Flora Jewellery Collections: Flowerlace & Fleurs d’Hawaï
Van Cleef & Arpels launches two new jewellery collections that capture the ephemeral beauty of blooms.
By Renee Batchelor - published
It was a crisp summer afternoon in Ayrshire Scotland, when we made the journey to the historic Dumfries House. Known for its extensive collection of original Chippendale furniture, we were there instead to witness the sprawling property’s beautiful gardens. One garden in particular holds special significance for renowned jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels, as it was renamed after the House in September 2023 with an opening ceremony graced by none other than King Charles himself.
In this garden sits several beds of beautiful roses, and the timing of this event in the early summer means they were in full bloom when we arrived, their fragrance wafting through the air with each lilting breeze. It was a fitting setting for the launch of the two new collections under Van Cleef & Arpels’ expansive Flora universe as well as the perfect location to celebrate the beauty of flowers. Here, we could appreciate the contrast between the ephemeral beauty of nature’s blooms set against the eternal charm of those crafted in jewellery, immortalised in gold, diamond and precious gemstones.
The two new collections were featured along with archival pieces from the other floral jewellery in Van Cleef & Arpels’ patrimony, such as the Rose de Noël, Pansy and Camellia, linking past inspirations with present day designs. Good design, after all, is timeless, and the exhibition details how the myriad interpretations of nature’s blooms in jewellery can range from the figurative to the abstract.
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Fleurs d’Hawaï
A model wears Fleurs d’Hawaï rings and earrings which feature a new coterie of semi-precious stones including amethyst, citrine and peridot
The first new collection, the Fleurs d’Hawaï, lays up the brilliance of gems, featuring a coterie of lesser-used stones from the House: amethyst, aquamarine, citrine, peridot and rhodolite. These have been crafted into a collection of pendant necklaces, rings, earrings and a charming secret watch. A large part of the allure of these natural gemstones is that they are finite in their supply, especially when it comes to attaining the level of quality required by Van Cleef & Arpels.
Catherine Rénier, the CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, who spoke to us at the launch explained, “We are guided, rather, by the stone selection and the stone availability and how much we can find in terms of quality and, of course, quantity, as well as the pairing [required] to make enough of a collection. It is what drives us after the designer has imagined the colours and the shapes.”
For Rénier, Fleurs d’Hawaï is not just colourful but employs a new stone shape—the pear—to present the flower petals in a new light as compared to an original reference collection from the 1930s. “We are changing the shape of the flower, making it a little thinner and giving it some dynamism. And also, the centre of the flower is set with gold beads and diamonds. The diamonds enable the coloured stones to shine a lot more, and when you look at it you really just want to grab it and play,” says Rénier.
It is this realistic feel that the House is looking to capture in this new jewellery. “With the petals, you almost want to touch them, and the detail of the leaf gives it that blooming feeling. It has a very naturalistic interpretation, because the leaf is also curved, and it has a line drawn on it so it’s very close to reality. Even the angle of the petal is crafted so that it looks like a natural flower.”
It is in fact the lifelike details that make Van Cleef & Arpels’ flowers stand out, whether it’s a three-dimensional leaf or a pistil brought to life with the sparkle of diamonds. Rénier explains how each colour combination of the type of gold used with each gemstone is also carefully thought out. For example, aquamarine is set in white gold to play off the delicacy and transparency of the blue hue, while the amethyst’s warm, purple shade is enhanced in yellow gold.
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Flowerlace
A model wears the Flowerlace necklace, earring and ring
In contrast to Fleurs d’Hawaï’s lifelike interpretation, the new Flowerlace was inspired by both nature and couture. The collection comprises a pendant cum brooch, a signature Between the Finger ring and earrings. The pieces are playful and almost whimsical, with a more stylised approach. Says Rénier, “The inspiration originally came from an archival silhouette clip from 1937, which sprung from the idea of a ribbon that you shape into the form of a flower. It is very much about balancing between design, wearability, gold work and all the expertise that comes along.” Every piece also has to pass the comfort test—so it has to not only wear well and be of a suitable weight, but sit perfectly on the finger, ear or neck.
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Transformability is another key tenet of the brand that gives more life to each precious piece. “Transformabilty is always important for the Maison. In Fleurs d’Hawaï you have a watch where you can take off the top piece and wear it as a pendant—the secret watch becomes a jewel. The transformability with Flowerlace, of course, also is this pendant that turns into a clip,” explains Rénier, as she demonstrates it for us. Ever changing yet ever conscious of its rich past, it’s no wonder that Van Cleef & Arpels continues to dazzle and delight with each new creation