By Brandon Chia - published
The 2023 edition of Geneva Watch Days, which took place from 28 August to 1 September, was truly a sight to behold. Forty watchmakers presented novelties at the fourth edition of the global showcase, which highlighted their horological expertise and creativity at the highest level.
The self-managed event, founded in 2020, provides both established and independent brands with a common space to explore modern and unconventional watchmaking while also bringing industry professionals and fans together for a week of non-stop action. Ahead, we break down our favourite timepieces from this year's showcase, and what makes each of them so special.
Bvgalri’s Monete Catena Dual Time
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As far as high jewellery watches go, the newest dual-face Monete Catena watch is a yellow gold, rose gold and diamond-encrusted masterpiece. The cuff design references the Maison’s ‘60s rectangular watches while the coins are an ode to the Monete jewellery collection from the same era, all of which speak to the brand’s superb craftsmanship.
Bvlgari’s Piccolissimo BVL 100 mechanical movement, the smallest round movement made today, powers the dazzling piece.
Ulysse Nardin’s Blast Free Wheel Marquetry
This big guy with a white gold case measuring at 45mm and a vivid blue dial is undoubtedly impressive, but it’s the métiers d’art technique used to achieve the radiant look that has us enthralled. Assembling each silicon plate takes several hours to complete and requires precise dexterity to avoid breaking a single piece or nicking the jewels in the process.
Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato Absolute 8Tech
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The newest addition to Girard-Perregaux's Laureato series is a monochromatic dream. It features a new look rendered from a groundbreaking technique formed by carbon parts, which creates a random pattern throughout the case while keeping it lightweight, despite its 44mm-diameter size. Even the sapphire caseback uses a smoked crystal to evoke the same colour tone.
Jacob & Co.’s The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone
Who doesn’t love a good story? This watch pays homage to founder Jacob Arabo’s family heirloom, a double time zone watch gifted to him by his father when he was 13 years old. The finely-crafted dial sees an aerial view of the Western hemisphere's continents in rose gold, carved by laser, while the oceans are laid in deep blue lacquer. The independent hour and minute markers share a central second subdial, powered by the Manufacture Jacob & Co. Self-Winding JCAA11.
MB&F’s HM9-SV
Inspired by jet engines, the latest Horological Machine by MB&F features a complex case and equally complex movement. Encasing the movement within an aerodynamic-shaped sapphire crystal gives the wearer a clear 360-degree view of the twin turbine balance wheels and the central body, which averages the output of both balances to keep accurate time.
Urwerk’s UR-110V Stardust
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How do 400 diamonds totalling up to 1.9 carats feel to the touch? Urwerk’s answer: smooth and fluid, as demonstrated by the UR-100V’s glittering case. As its name might suggest, the timepiece leans into spatial themes with two recesses on the flanks of the satellite carrier. The first one represents the distance travelled by the Earth on its own axis, and the second shows the distance travelled by the Earth around the sun.
Arnold & Son’s Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight
This Swiss manufacturer has created its smallest movement to date specifically for this watch, measuring 29.4mm in diameter, which powers the precious ruthenium moon complication. Behind a wave of ruthenium crystals, blue and mint-green-hued turquoise hills lie the ruthenium moon phase with various crescents between the 10 and 12-hour markers, depicting the appearance of Earth’s natural satellite. There's also no need to worry when it comes to accuracy, as the brand ensures its watches' precision for the next 122 years.
Corum’s Concept Watch
Watchmaking is an art form and a science that only a few get to specialise in. But Corum takes the wearer behind the scenes of its creative process through this timepiece’s unique caseback, with a window that provides an insightful peek at the tourbillon, mainspring and gear train. The accompanying engravings explain the functionality of each component, a simple yet exciting way to blend function with aesthetics, as seen on the midnight-blue aventurine dial.